There is some science in cooking a really good Gungo Stew. Those who want a genuine gourmet taste in this West Indian favourite understand this. Most of us do it by rote. But if the intent is to create a Creole culture piece, you must pay close attention to the details.
Such details vary from island to island, of course, and here in Jamaica even by parish. Still, there probably are common approaches one finds throughout the region. I was thinking about these the other day at home while eating what must be the best Gungo Stew I have ever tasted in my life. Bar none. And I have had that dish at its best from Trinidad, Grenada, St. Vincent and even Brooklyn.
So let’s look at what can make this dish so tasty. We should start with the critical ingredients. It’s almost impossible to get that rich, creamy flavour in your stew without coconut milk, the fresher the better. Which means grating your own coconut and squeezing out the milk, annoying as it might be, might reward you with better taste.
A nice pepper is important. You want a pepper that is hot, but with much flavor. A highly flavored pepper acts as an additional seasoning. Many people use thyme, but cilantro gives the Gungo Stew an exotic twist, and some folks use whatever herbs are at hand. A restaurateur friend of mine told me long ago the real secret to good tasting food is fresh herbs, as opposed to the dried variety. I must admit though, that I have added the dried mix from Grace Vegetable Soup when it was still on the supermarket shelves and got great results.
It’s also more difficult to get that finger-licking taste when you must keep the stew vegetarian. I find a Shitake mushroom soaked in soy and herbs will bring you a better flavor than all those meat parts the carnivores like.
Now, spinners are a must in the Gungo Stew I like. The corn meal ones are wonderful. But if you really want awesome try cassava spinners. OMG! Carrots and pumkin are my vegetables of choice for the stew.
The amount of gravy is critical. There must be enough to wet your rice or yam and banana. But it must be thick and slightly cloying. If it is too watery you begin to feel like you’re having soup.
You want the green Gungo for a really good stew. It is milkier and more succulent than dried Gungo and certainly not as nutty and starchy. Of course, the green Gungo just gives the stew a fresher taste, which is always a plus in any dish.
What to drink with your Gungo Stew is also important. Coconut water is my first pick. Like the stew itself it is subtle in taste and doesn’t conflict. But a good grapefruit juice brings an exciting contrast, or an ice cold Red Stripe if the hour is right.
Now, there must be something sparking psychologically if I can find time to devote a blog to food. Whatever it is, Gungo Stew is worth the release of that synapse.